climbing

personal website : Roger Payne

welcome I background I climbing I development I guiding I photography I skiing I work

Alpine – every year since 1977 with ascents of classic big routes (e.g. North Face of the Eiger, Walker Spur, Central Pillar of Freney, etc,) and some new routes (e.g. Innominata Ridge Super Direct, Mont Blanc). Also, many alpine rock climbs and some winter alpine ascents.

Clubs – Sunderland Polytechnic Mountaineering Club (President 1980-83), Alpine Club (committee member 1988-91), Alpine Climbing Group, Climbers' Club and the Alpine Ski Club.

Competitions – only once as a participant (and that was blindfold and ‘3-legged’). Helped to organise and manage the first British Competition Climbing Team, coordinate the first series of competitions in Britain, and organise or be responsible for eight major international climbing competitions at the National Indoor Arena in Birmingham. Also, helped ice climbing and ski mountaineering become recognised by and parts of the UIAA.

Greater Ranges - since 1982 over 20 trips with first ascents up to ED+ (see list below).

Guiding - qualified as an international mountain guide in 1983. Guided a considerable number of alpine routes from F to TD, and numerous ski tours. Elected president of the British Association of Mountain Guides (BMG) for 2009-11.

Ice and Mixed – considerable experience in Scotland since 1975 including new routes up to grade VI, and on-sight leading mixed routes to VII. In recent years cascade and mixed ascents in the Alps, including some first-ascents of ice and mixed routes.

Rock - throughout Britain since 1972 with trips to Europe and the USA. On-sight leading to E5 (leader protection) and 7a (bolt protection). Some minor new routes in Britain (mostly not recorded) and an interesting first ascent of Comanche Ridge in the Grand Canyon, Arizona.

Trips to the Greater Ranges - since 1986 all trips organised and undertaken with Julie-Ann Clyma. All the trips have been lightweight amateur undertakings, and nearly all have been kindly supported by the Mount Everest Foundation and British Mountaineering Council. Individual reports include acknowledgements to the various sponsors and supporters:

2007 - Brumkhangshe (5635m), Pheling (c.5500m), Chombu (6362m) and Eagle Peak (5540m)

India - Sikkim: four summits in North Sikkim Report

As a team of two made four ascents, at least two of which were probably virgin, and explored Chombu.

2006 - Chogyl (c5710m), Frontier Peak (5650m), Koktang (6147m) and Ratong (6679m)

India - Sikkim: two virgin summits with Sagar Report

As a team of three with Sagar from Sikkim made the first ascents of Chogyl and Frontier Peak and explored routes on two other peaks.

2005 - Lama Lamani (c5700m) Mt Tinchenchang (6010m)

India - Sikkim: a virgin summit with Kunzang and Sagar Report

As a team of four with two climbers from Sikkim made the first ascent of Lama Lamani and the first alpine-style ascent of Mt Tinchenchang.

2004 - Thangsing Valley

India - Sikkim: to Heaven's Gate with Mac and Loreto McNaught-Davis

As a team of four made a reconnaissance trek in the Thangsing Valley in West Sikkim.

2004 - Chomolhari (7426m)

China - Tibet: along Younghusband's route to the holy mountain on the edge of Tibet Report

As a team of two attempted the first ascent of the technical NW ridge of Chomolhari. Progress stopped by continuous strong winds. Transferred to the South Ridge and made a rapid alpine-style ascent.

2003 - Mount Grosvenor (6376m)

China - Daxue Shan: no way back on damaged ropes Report

As a team of two made the first ascent of Mount Grosvenor by the difficult North Face, with a traverse and descent of the East Ridge.

2002 - Island Peak (6189m)

Nepal - Khumbu: 'Everest Meltdown' for UNEP with Mac and Loreto McNaught-Davis, Richard Heap and Lauren Derioz Report

Organised a small team to make a filmed ascent of Island Peak to help the United Nations Environment Programme promote awareness about the impact of global warming in the Himalayas and the threat of glacial lake outburst floods.

2000 - Pumari Chhish (7450m)

Pakistan - Hispar Karakoram: big face and even bigger avalanches Report and Press Release

Second attempt as a team of two to South Face of Pumari Chhish, curtailed by being hit by avalanches on the approach spur. Ski toured around one side of the mountain and tried to trek around the other.

1999 - Pumari Chhish (7450m)

Pakistan - Hispar Karakoram: big face and big avalanches Report

As a team of two made the 1st attempt on the huge South Face of Pumari Chhish. Curtailed by extreme avalanche conditions high on the face with avalanches sweeping over the bivouac tent.

1998 - Meru (6660m)

India - Garwhal: snow leopard and storms Report

Permission for Reo Pyrgyil withdrawn just prior to departure. As a team of two transferred for an attempt on the East Face of Meru. Curtailed at the headwall by bad weather and avalanches sweeping past.

1997- Changabang (6848m)

India - Garhwal: success and tragedy on the shining mountain with Andy Cave, Brendan Murphy, Mick Fowler, Steve Sustad Report

Organised a team of six to the North Face of Changabang. Summit reached by Cave and Murphy. Tragically Murphy was swept to his death on the descent. Own attempt curtailed high on the face by bad weather and avalanches.

1996 - Changabang (6848m)

India - Garhwal: first attempt on the North Face of the shining mountain with Brendan Murphy and Andy Perkins Report

Organised a team of four for the first attempt on the North Face of Changabang; retreat forced from high on the face following illness of Perkins.

1995 - Tirsuli West (7035m)

India - Garhwal: explorations around the Nanda Devi Sanctuary Report

As a team of two made ascents of peaks up to 6300m and an attempt on the virgin summit of Tirsuli West.

1994 - Nanda Devi East (7434m)

India - Garhwal: to the goddess Report

As a team of two attempted a new route but not enough snow and ice on the approach. Transferred to the South Ridge and made the first British and NZ ascent of Nanda Devi East – and also the first alpine style ascent.

1993 - K2 (8611m)

Pakistan - Baltoro Karakoram: hydro and high drama with Alan Hinkes and Victor Saunders Report

Organised a team of four for a partially filmed attempt on K2. Curtailed by severe weather high on the mountain. Five fatal accidents to other parties, rescued a climber descending from the top with an epic descent in a storm, during which a rope broke and a fatal fall was narrowly avoided. Facilitated the installation of a second village micro-hydroelectricity scheme.

1992 Broad Peak (8047m)

Pakistan - Baltoro Karakoram: hydro and storms with Allen Fyffe, Martin Hair, Iain Peter and Libby Peter (report to be added)

Organised a team of six that made ascents of 6000m peaks and an attempt on a new route on the SW Face of Broad Peak. Diverted to the normal route because of bad weather and stopped high on the mountain. Facilitated the installation of a village micro-hydroelectricity scheme.

1991 - Khan Tengri (7010m) and Pobeda (7435m)

Kazahkstan - Tien Shan: the celestial peaks with Allen Fyffe and Iain Peter Report

Organised a team of four that made the first British and NZ ascents of Khan Tengri and Pobeda.

1989 - Lobuje East (6119m)

Nepal - Khumbu: technical trekking with Martin Hair and Howard Simpson Report

Organised a team of four that made ascents of Lobuje East by two routes.

1988 Mt Foraker (5272m) and Mt McKinley (6156m)

USA - Alaska: Denali allsorts Report

As a team of two made various attempts on new routes including Mt Foraker. Ascent of Mt McKinley and new route on Kahiltna Gnome.

1987 - Gasherbrum 6 (7003m) and Gasherbrum 2 (8035m)

Pakistan - Baltoro Karakoram: skis and tragedy with Guy Halliburton, Jean-Pierre Hefti, Steve Jones, Iain Peter, Carol Nash, Donald Stewart and Richard Thorns Report

Organised a team of nine to Gasherbrum 6 and 2. The team made a filmed ascent of G2 making the first British and NZ ascents. Tragically Jean-Pierre Hefti fell to his death attempting a ski descent of the South Face.

1986 - Rusac (6040m) and 5 other peaks

Peru - Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash: next to the 'void' with Martin Hair and Hood Report

Organised a team of four made numerous ascents and 3 new routes including the difficult south face direct of Rusac (ED+).

1985 - Milpoqraju (5250m) and Nevado Kayesh (5721m)

Peru - Cordillera Blanca: first ascents and the video 8 with Steve Derwin, Jerry Gore, Alan Hinkes, Arthur McCourt, George Raynes, Richard Thorns, and Simon Travis (report to be added)

As a team of eight led by Jerry Gore made a film for the Mick Burke Award of the first ascent of the West face of Milpoqraju and an attempt on Nevado Kayesh.

1983 - Meru (6660m)

India - Garhwal: to the avalanche at the centre of the universe with Mark Diggins, Allen Fyffe and Iain Peter (report to be added)

As a team of four made an attempt on the East Face of Meru, curtailed by bad weather and avalanches.

1982 - Mount McKinley (6156m)

USA - Alaska: April foolery, below minus forty with Iain Peter

As a team of two made an early spring attempt on the Cassin Ridge of Mount McKinley. Transferred to the West Buttress in storms, and stopped high on the mountain by extreme cold and very strong winds.

Reports from trips to the Greater Ranges (see full list below)

2007 Brumkhangshe (5635m) and 3 other peaks

2006 Chogyl (c5710) Frontier Peak (c5650)

2005 Lama Lamani (c5700m) Mt Tinchenchang (6010m)

2004 Chomolhari (7426m)

2003 Mount Grosvenor (6376m)

2002 UNEP Island Peak (6189m)

2000 Pumari Chhish (7450m)

1999 Pumari Chhish (7450m)

see full list below for older reports

click on thumbnails for larger view